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This covers our Helicopter Adventures. We understand that they are hard to learn, both in Full Size and in Model Size. Especially in the Model Size. Now then, the date above is when we obtained our first Heli. This document start date is much later. (A little slow on this one.)

Anywho, we have been thrilled and disappointed and unhappy. Why??? Well, we expected a little bit more than we got. -And- we got two(2) of the same. The first one was an IMPULSE Purchase at the local mall for $150.00. The second was a purchase over the Net for $42.90!! Same Heli, Double Horse 9118, only different color.

A 'lot' of the verbiage below came from other people. They described what we have experienced with our DH9118 -but- they were using a DH9053. It has been said in many places on the Web that they are essentially the same Heli, just a different radio. Refer: DH9053

There is a learning curve to flying this... and all Helis. Just because it is a gyro copter, don't think that you can just take it out and fly it with out crashing. We had a hard time getting off the ground for the first day, ground effect came in and made it go 'left' every time. After some practice and messing with the trim tabs we got better at it. It is affected by wind but ALL helicopters are. This is to include real helicopters. To start learning, either do it on a day with no wind, or find a gym/auditorium to practice in. Battery time is not bad, we get about 15 minutes per charge. However, it takes about 2.5 hrs to recharge the battery. That is exactly why we got a second Heli... of the same type. Changing out the battery is NOT hard -but- is a little more involved that we care to do out in the field. More on this later.

 Recomendation from one of the other Reviewers:   Again just a suggestion, but get good with it at about 1.5 - 2 ft off the ground first. Its harder to fly closer to the ground because of ground effects so if you can get good close to the ground you should have no problems higher in the air.

Now then, for the price, you actually get a pretty decent piece of hardware. That being said, there are a few modifications to be made... before -or- after use. It says ready to fly on the box, and fly it will... how well is definitely open to debate.

 Center of Gravity  This is something of importance in ALL flying machines. Nose heavy is better than tail heavy... but only slightly. The CG is simply the balance point of the helicopter. You will always want your CG at or the slightest bit forward of the main rotor mast.
Refer: CG Settings

   

Refer: 9053 mods  |  More 9053 mods  |  9118 mods

  How they fly

This information was obtained from: Dynam-RC

 

 Basically there are two different types of helicopters,the kind of those that have collective pitch and another kind of those that do not. Collective pitch is where the pitch of the main rotor blades may be simultaneously increased or decreased to change the amount of lift. This gives a quicker response to changes in vertical thrust as controlled by the pilot. Helicopters without collective pitch are traditional technology and no longer available. We would strongly advise against this type of model as we are sure disappointment would follow and we don't want to put anyone off the hobby!

  There are many more moving parts in a collective pitch rotor head and thus, they are cost more. All current helicopters on the market today have collective pitch.

  On a standard, collective pitch helicopter there are four controls and these are operated by five channels of your radio system. These controls are the collective pitch, the fore and aft cyclic pitch, the side to side cyclic pitch, and the tail rotor pitch. The collective pitch must also be coupled with the throttle of the engine so that when more load is put on the main rotor blades by increasing the pitch, more throttle is applied to help overcome the additional drag.

  The left stick of your radio transmitter controls the collective and throttle in the vertical direction and the tail rotor pitch in the side to side direction. Your right stick controls both cyclic operations; up and down for fore and aft control and side to side for the cyclic side to side control. There are also mixing functions which mix the throttle and collective functions, and the throttle/collective and tail rotor functions. So you can know, it's very complicacy to set up both the helicopter and the radio!

 

   

  What You Need

This information was also obtained from: Dynam-RC

    The following is a list of the items will be required to get started with radio controlled helicopters:

The Helicopter
  When you choose your first helicopter you will have to decide which type of helicopter you wish to buy, one with collective pitch, or one with out collective pitch. If you are starting in radio control for the first time we would recommend a helicopter with collective pitch. You will also find the learning process easier with a collective pitch helicopter. You will only find helicopters in the second hand market without collective pitch, and we strongly recommend that you stay away from them!

  Unlike aircraft where there are specific trainer models geared solely for the first time kit, the differences between helicopters is more subtle with the biggest difference being size and precision. The larger and more precise a machine, the better it will fly. These machines would make great training helicopters but they are usually more expensive with high precision parts, and in the case of a crash they would be costly to repair. They are better suited for the more experienced modeller where accidents happen less often.

  Bare in mind, when learning to fly a helicopter you are going to have a crash or two and parts are going to have to be replaced. Replacing parts on a precision machine could really need you to pay a large amount of money! A good place to start would be a helicopter designed for a .30 size engine, a stable flyer with collective pitch, and one with a good availability of parts.

The Radio
  As mentioned earlier, a proper helicopter radio differs from a standard aircraft radio. There are certain functions that must be mixed electronically and these are found only in radios designed for this purpose. More and more often, one is able to find radio systems that have functions suitable to both aircraft and helicopters. If you think you may be involved in both sides of the hobby, you may want to choose one of these for your system.

  On the other hand what to need to be consider are are the servos and the battery pack when purchasing a helicopter system. It is best to choose servos that have output shafts supported by ball bearings. The pressure and vibration on the servos in a helicopter is much greater than in a aeroplane, bushed servos tend to wear out very quickly and lose their precision which is extremely important in the controlling of a helicopter. Because you will be using a minimum of five servos and a gyro (to be discussed later) in a helicopter, and the higher frequency of control input, it is very necessary to have a larger battery pack than the standard 600 maH pack that comes with most aircraft radios. A battery pack of 1200 maH is a minimum requirement but 1800 to 2000maH is a much better option to consider. Many helicopter radios come packaged with five BB servos and a large battery pack. Also ensure that the radio is on the 35Mhz waveband and not anything else. This frequency band is specially designated to model aircraft in the UK. Please read ' Getting To Know R/C Radio Systems' for more information on the right radio to buy.

Gyroscope
  A gyroscope, or gyro, is an electromechanical device used in a helicopter to help semi-automate the response of the tail rotor. In the case of an R/C helicopterr, the device is fitted electrically between the receiver and the servo that controls the pitch of the tail rotor blades. A sensor measures any change in yaw of the aircraft and will correct the situation by increasing or decreasing the tail rotor pitch to stabilise the movement.

  We would say that a gyro is essential as the beginner will have enough to do with all the other controls without trying to stop the model from spinning around all the time and with gyros available from around ?39 it is money well spent. Gyros are made by most radio manufacturers for operation compatible with their systems.

The Engine
  The helicopter engine is similar to a 2-cycle aircraft glow engine except that it has a larger heat sink head for better cooling, and a carburettor with improved midrange adjustment. When purchasing the helicopter engine, the muffler is not included. Usually the muffler comes with the helicopter kit.

  Different motors use different starting methods. Some come with a pull start system for very simple starting. Others use a cone start where an electric starter is used in a similar way as starting an aircraft. Others use an electric starter and a belt for starting. Please read 'Getting To Know R/C Engines'.

Tools
  Because the helicopter is purely a mechanical device, tools for assembly usually include items such as screw drivers, ball drivers, nut drivers, wrenches, pliers, etc. In addition to these there are a couple of speciality tools that come in handy when assembling and setting up the mechanics of your helicopter.

  One tool you may want to assist you in assembly is a set of ball link pliers. The ball link is the most popular linkage piece on a helicopter and virtually all helicopterss use them. The ball link pliers greatly help in the removing and adjusting of these links. A second tool that is extremely useful during set-up is the rotor blade pitch gauge. This device can help you line up your rotor blades so that your pitch is correct. A blade pitch gauge can go along way to helping avoid costly crashes and frustration down the road as so much of your chopper's well being depends on how well it is set up initially and maintained throughout its lifetime.

 

   

  What you get

This information was also obtained from: Dynam-RC

    You will get just about everything you need when you buy your radio system. Most aircraft and helicopter systems (of four or more channels) come with transmitter, receiver, three or more servos, rechargeable NiCad batteries for both the transmitter and receiver, a charger for both transmitter and receiver batteries, switch harness, frequency flag and extra servo control arms.

Transmitter
  Sometimes referred to as the 'TX'. The transmitter is the hand held control box that converts your control movements into electrical signals and sends them via radio waves to the receiver in your model.

Receiver
  Sometimes referred to as the 'RX'. The receiver is the small electronic box the size of a matchbox and placed in your model. The receiver converts the signal from your transmitter into electrical control signals which can be sent to your servos.

Servos
  Servos are the devices in the model which actually produce the control movements. Servos convert the electrical signals from your receiver into physical movement to control your model. A different servo is needed for each control function or radio channel.

Batteries
  Virtually all 4 channel systems come complete with NiCad rechargeable battery packs (a pack for the transmitter and a pack for the airbourne receiver and servos) and charger that will recharge both packs. You should NEVER use Alkaline batteries in any R/C model aircraft.

Radio Modulation
  When looking for a radio, you will find that people often speak about different types of modulation. They are referring to the way the electronic control information is sent from your transmitter to the receiver over radio waves.
AM
  Amplitude Modulation, was the first means of modulation in R/C. The control information is transmitted by varying the amplitude of the signal. This form of modulation has, in R/C aircraft been superseded by FM.
FM
  Frequency Modulation, is now the usual method of transmitting the radio signal. It is less prone to interference than AM. It is transmitted by varying the frequency of the signal.
PCM
  Pulse Code Modulation, FM is still used, but the control information is in the form of a digital signal rather than the pulse width used in AM or FM. Using PCM adds additional safety and is very much less prone to interference.

 

   

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